How to create basic bodice block (Nathalie Bray Method)

 

Introduction

Why Are we Here?

We are here to learn how to draft basic patterns for garment making.  Basic Bodice by Nathalie Bray.

Pattern Making and Manipulation is a skill you learn forever because it is  dynamic, so I am still learning

To improve and add to the fashion Designing skills already achieved.

What Is the Benefit?

We will benefit by learning techniques and skills that will enhance your creativity when making garments, be it Ready-To- Wear or Made –To-Measure.

We will discover various ways of designing our personal signatures without copying or waiting for someone to show us paper illustration.

You can grow your business from just a tailor to a consultant, a trainer, a pattern merchant, patternmaking tools wholesaler etc..

We will learn the easiest way to make clothes fit your client without adjustments after sewing

We will be able to understand and interpret any pattern seen online.

Lesson 1: Objectives

At the End of this Training, you will be able to:

Draft Basic Bodice Pattern (Nathalie Bray Method)

Different Tools required for pattern drafting

• Brown or white paper
• French Curve/Pattern Master 
• Grading Square or Set Square
• Pencil
• Paper scissor
• Calico/Muslin or Plain cotton fabric
• Long Meter Rule
• Markers
• Cellotape/Magic tape
• Masking Tape
• Eraser
• Sharpener
• Tracing Wheel
• Rotary Cutter
• Fabric Scissors
• Soft wood/ or a table
• Spot and Cross Mat
• Long Pins
• Pin Cushion/magnet
• Metric tape
• Measuring Tape
• Pattern Notcher
• Awl
• Calculator
• Pattern Hanger. Keep different sizes to avoid repetition
• Metric pattern Cutting textbook
• Dress Pattern Designing textbook
• Camera or Phone with good camera

Taking Measurement for Pattern Drafting

BODICE MEASUREMENTS

Bust—round the fullest part of the bust in the front. Leave no ease. Make it as close as possible especially for Slim figures

Hips—round the fullest part of the hips (about 20-25cm) from the natural waist

Waist—round the natural waist, (where the navel is).

Back width—across the back, approximately 10-12 cm below the nape of the neck. This should be a generous measurement, allowing for any natural stoop. and the person measured should not stand more erect than usual.

Chest width- Across the chest, approximately 12-13 an down from the base of the neck, with shoulders thrown well back.

Shoulder—down the middle of the shoulder, from neck NP to point of shoulder (SP) where the sleeve begins-This measurement tends to be influenced by fashion.

Back Length to waist—down the CB from nape to natural waist.

Front Length to waist—is taken down the front from Neck Point (NP). To the waist. Optional and not required for pattern drafting.

Measurement Chart 

Note:  This Chart is originally from Nathalie Bray's Dress Pattern Designing text book, but for convenience of use and to accommodate a wider range of sizes, it has been graded down (smaller petite sizes) and Up (for Plus Sizes) by Edidiong Eshiet of LEUTI

Basic Bodice Pattern Drafting (Back)

The measurements required for now will be:

• Bust (B)
• Hips(H)
• Waist (W)
• Length to Waist (LW)
• Back Width (xB)
• Chest Width (Ch)
• Shoulder (S)
• Point O CB 

Step 1

• Identify and write down the measurements you want to use. 
• For RTW use the chart. For MTM use the specific measurement of the client for Bust(B), Waist (W)and Hip(H). Fix it in the range it belongs on the chart.
•  Take your rectangular Pattern paper (about 75cm long). The width will be determined by checking 1/2 Bust + 5cm and 1/2 Hips + 3 cm.  Which ever is the highest.  Use that as the width of the paper.  

Step 2

• Then create a border 3cm at the top (label it Top Line). 2cm on the left side, Label it Centre Back (CB).  Then to the right measure the width and label it Centre Front(CF)
  

E.g 

If Bust = 104cm and Hip = 106cm. You should have 47 + 5 = 52 for bust and 48 + 3 = 51 for hip so 52 is the highest and this should be used for the width of the paper.  So you will have minimum of 75cm X 52cm paper in from of you.

Figure 1

Step 3

• From the top, on the CB,
• Mark Point O (according to the corresponding measurement). Label the Line Neck Line
• Square to the right halfway.

Step 4

From Point O, on the CB, 

• Mark Bust Line (being depth of armhole)
• Mark Waist Line (being Length to Waist (LW) 
• Mark Hip Line (20 to 25cm below waist Line)
• Square to the right all the way to CF.

Step 5

• From Point O, on the CB, 
• mark Back Line (Being half way between Point O and Bust line)
• Mark Shoulder Line (being 3cm below point O)
• Square to the right, halfway 
• Label as shown

To watch some clips on our youtube channel, follow this link

Basic Bodice, Nathalie Bray method

Step 6

• From Point O, Along the Neck Line
• Mark Back Neck Width(according to the corresponding measurement).
• From this point, mark 2cm upwards. Label it Neck Point (NP) 

Step 7

• Along Back Line 
• mark ½ Back width(xBack) 
• Square it Up and Down to have a straight vertical line
• Where the vertical line crosses the shoulder line, mark 2cm to the right and label it SP(Shoulder Point).
• Where the vertical line crosses the back line mark 1cm above and 2cm below
• Where vertical line crosses the bust line, mark *Back UP* to the right and label it UP(underarm point)

Step 8

• Draw the Neck Line with a French Curve from NP to Point O
• Draw a straight line from NP to SP
• Draw the back armhole using and French Curve from NP to UP passing through a 45* angle of 3cm long before reaching UP

Step 9

• Along The Hip Line 
• mark ¼ Hip(H)  and label it HP(Hip Point)
• Join UP to HP with a straight line
• Where that line crosses the waist line, mark 2cm to the left. Label it WP(Waist Point)
• Join UP to WP with a French Curve.

Step 10

• Mark Point O at the top right Hand of the square

Step 11

• Down Along The CF  from Point O
• mark 4cm to 4.5cm depending on the figure, square to the left and label it Shoulder Line
• Down Along The CF  from Point O
• mark 7cm to 8.5cm depending on the figure, square to the left and label it Neck Line
• From Bust Line, Measure 4cm upwards, square to the left and label it Chest Line.
• Along the Top Line, 
• mark the neck width to the left. Label it NP(Neck Point)
• Square it down to the Neck line
• Draw the neck curvepassing though an angle 3 to 3.5 cm depending on the size.

Step 12

• On the Shoulder Line, to the left
• Mark 16.5cm(for all sizes)
• Draw a line from NP through this last point towards the centre of the paper
• On the Bust Line
• Mark ¼ Chest to the left and 2cm below. Square up and down with a Dotted line.
• Where the dotted line crosses the sloping shoulder seam, 
• mark 2cm to the left and from here draw a straight line and join it to the 2cm on that dotted line(below the bust line). Label it inner Line
• Mark the “Dart Size” to the left of the Inner Line (still on the sloping shoulder seam) and from here draw a straight line and join it to the 2cm on that dotted line(below the bust line). Label it Outer Line

Step 13

• From NP down the sloping Shoulder seam
• Mark Shoulder + Dart Size and label it SP(Shoulder Point)

Step 14

• On the Chest Line, 
• Mark  ½ Chest width from CF. Ignore the space between the Inner and Outer line. Label that point ChP(Chest Point).
• Join SP to ChP with a straight line. Mark a point midway on this line and 1cm above that point.
• Drop a short perpendicular to the bust line, 4cm below. And create an angle of  45* and1.5cm long to the left.
• On the Bust Line
• Mark Front UP being Pattern Bust Measurement (1/2 bust + 5) minus ½ back + backup, label it UP
• Draw a curved armhole from SP to UP through ChP.
• On the Hip Line
• mark ¼ Hip + 2cm, Label it HP(Hip Point)
• Join UP to HP with a straight line
• Where the line crosses the waist line, mark 1.5cm to the right. Label it WP(Waist Point)

Step 15

• Below the Bust Line, 
• Mark  4cm, square  to the left and label it True Bust Line
• Below theWaist Line
• Mark 2 to 3 cm depending on size
• Mark 0.5 to 1cm below Front WP
• Mark 0.5 to 1cm below Back WP 
• Draw a straight line from CF to Front WP
• Draw a straight line from Back WP to CB(waist line)

Step 16

• Fold in the Inner Line up to the 2cm below and place it on top of the outer line, such that the fold under faces the neck(CF).
• Use carbon paper and Tracing Wheel to Draw a straight line from NP to SP
• Open up the fold and draw out the line as shown in the figure opposite.

Step 17 – Waist Shaping

• From CB along the Waist Line
• Measure, from CB to back WP and continue from front WP  until the tape registers ½ waist + 2cm .  Label that point R(Reduction).  
• Measure from R to CF. Whatever remains will be share equally to from and back and has to be reduced from the waist.

Waist Reduction(WR) watch explanation here

• Mark 1cm on SL. Waistline from CF. Draw a straight line through the chest
• Mark  1cm on SL waistline right of front WP and draw a shaped Side seam to UP
• Whatever remains is taken out by a waist Dart (13cm above and 15cm below the slanted W.L)
• Mark 1 cm on SL waistline left of back WP and draw a shaped Side seam to UP 
• Mark 2cm right of CB along Waistline and draw and straight line through Backline at CB
• Whatever remains is taken out by a waist Dart (13cm above and 15cm below the slanted W.L)

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READY-TO-WEAR BUSINESS AT A GLANCE

 

READY-TO-WEAR BUSINESS AT A GLANCE

An Overview

In recent times, fashion industry is booming in Nigeria, and this is attracting a lot of foreign investors.  Many business persons in the industry are rushing to Ready-To-Wear, Garment Production and Fashion Education because those are the most profitable areas of the industry.

There is so much opportunity locally and even good exposure in the international market.  With proper coaching and mentorship any designer can start a journey in this line and get to the top in no time.

The market is massive with varieties of Niches to choose from.  The rush has caused a high level competition which can only be overcome by con
sistency, creativity and motivation.  Hence it’s not a business for the lazy, timid and laid back people.

 Growing in this industry, I personally made several mistakes which will be highlighted here for others to learn.  You may not be as lucky as I was to learn the right thing on time, but its still good to avoid mistakes already made by others.

What is Ready-to-Wear?

As the name implies it’s a clothing line already designed, sewn and ready for the client to buy and wear.

The designers mostly use standard measurement chart depending on the sizes of the market segment chosen.  Or using a range of sizes from random models in the segment.

To make it more interesting the designers choose to satisfy a niche at a time and then expand from there to other niches or even other market segments, releasing the collections periodically.  This keeps the fans hungry for more.  Some may even decide to pre order customized designs where only they will wear!

 

*6 Major Steps to Start a Ready-To-Wear Business*

*Step 1*

*Acquire the skills*

A good Fashion designer must understand the primary rudiments of garment making.  Not necessarily to be the one sewing, but to be able to create styles and manage a Ready-To-Wear clothing line very well.

To have eyes for details and neat finishing is also an important skill.

People management is also required, you must have a very good interpersonal relationship since you will be serving human beings.

Also, ability to follow fashion trend is key.  For a designer that knows pattern drafting, creating new designs according to the trend will not be an issue.  However, as a beginner, simple straightforward but unique designs are recommended.

Basic fashion illustration skill is also required here otherwise, you will have to pay someone to do that all the time.

*Step 2*

*Choose a Niche*

Most often designers rush into RTW without actually identify the Niche they want to serve.  Some even follow trend and copy what other designers are selling without understanding how they came about that choice.  This will always fail!!

From experience, you must have a market segment in mind, and from there determine the niche to start with, then during your growth process, you can include other sub niches or even start a new one.  There are so many other factors that should be considered when choosing a niche.

What is a Fashion Niche?

A specific range of clothing designed for a specific group of people.  The style, fabric, colour, theme will be tailored towards what will appeal to that group.

How to choose a Niche

-        Identify your own interests and passions (clothing wise). What do you like to wear?

-        Identify how wide the market is, e.g how many people like to wear those type of clothing and where can you find them?

-        Imagine what challenges those people have concerning those clothing and how you think it can be solved.

-        Research and investigate if other companies are providing the solution and how strong are they in your locality?  Have they been able to meet the demand?

-        Calculate the production cost of one piece of the clothing and determine the profitability if you were to sell it.

-        Draft a design of the clothing

-        Draft a pattern for a model (any size)

-        Make a sample for the model to wear and do a photo-shoot

-        Test your idea on friends, families and neighbours. Post it on social media, send it to people, Collate their feedback and complaints.  Based on this, you may make corrections and or additions.

-        Finalize your decision on that niche. If need be, you can change the style to something more acceptable.

-        Decide the quantity you want to start the business with depending on available budget. 

 

*Step 3*

*Write a Business Plan*

You will get confused along the way if you start a journey without itinerary.  Sometimes you will be derailed or give up on the journey.  You need to plan what you intend to do.  There has to be a Business plan, no matter how small, it does not have to be a 50 page booklet!! You can start with a few basic information that specifies the following:

• Vision
• -        Target Market segment (its size) / Opportunities
• -        Niche and your proffered solution for them
• -        Strength/Weaknesses
• -        Unique Value Proposition
• -        Competitors
• -        Budget for start-up, how do will go get the start up capital?
• -        Marketing strategy. How do you intend to sell the clothing?
• -        Etc

In addition to this, you should have a business structure. There is need for Stores Manager, Digital Marketers, sales persons, accountants, dispatchers, QA/QC, store keeper etc.

As a CEO, you are not expected to do everything by yourself, your job is to strategize and manage the people doing the business.

 

*Step 4*

*Choose a Location*

For a starter, I usually do not advise renting a shop and filling it up with clothing, this will come after the business kicks up fully.

It is recommended to open a digital store front first and run the physical store from the comfort of your home, but if you are buoyant enough to open a shop, then that’s fine.

However, from your choice of Niche you would have decided where you want your physical store to be located.  And this has to befit the target market you are serving. 

 

*Step 5*

*Mass produce the Garment*

Having decided which garment you have finally settled on, you may proceed to mass produce the garment.

It is always a hectic task to for RTW store owners to do this by themselves.  I usually recommend outsourcing to Garment Production Factories.  Or a dedicated section of your company with minimum of 10 workers.  You will have to provide the fabrics and accessories required for the production. You will discuss with the factory if they can do the pattern for you or you will present well detailed pattern to them.

However, if you have the capacity and resources for bulk production, then you can go ahead.

There has to be a well laid out plan for the garment production, time lines, and QC/QA checks.  No one tailor should cut and sew one garment from beginning to the end, except it’s just a sample piece.

For the production you will need a team of fashion illustrator, pattern drafter, cutter, seasoned tailor, presser, QA/QA, packager, storekeeper, dispatcher, marketer, salesperson, Accountant etc.  These personnel will have to meet often to review the activities until the design is fully out into the market.

 

*Step 6*

*Naming Ceremony*

-        RTW has the tendency to expand and multiply into a large clothing store, hence the need to identify each of your collections with a unique name.  At some point you may have over 10 collections, so the names have to be distinct.

-        This should not be confused with the brand name.  The brand name is fixed, but the collection name can vary according to what you are inspired to name it.

-        Start creating awareness by adverts, sneak peek trailers, status posts on social media, jingles, celebrity/influencers endorsements, friends spreading the news, etc.

-        Identify other RTW outlets who may wish to become distributors for your designs and give them samples to place in their shops too.

-        It is optional to launch the collection with a party/runway show where friends and relations are invited to celebrate and buy at discounted prices.  Not really advisable to spend too much money on this, But it’s very important to pray over the business before you start.

-        You can also launch online by posting the designs on social media status or a website page.  All this should be done within budget.  You don’t want to overshoot budget before you start!

-        For those who have not registered with CAC, this is the time to do it. This gives you a legal backing to operate in Nigeria. Also it’s a requirement for you to open a bank account.

-        You may decide to request for pre orders during your launching (at discounted prices).  This will add to your start-up capital.  And you are sure you already have the demands on ground.

 

 On a Final Note. 

-        All businesses need *people* or a *network of people*.  Stop being a loner and self-centred, make friends with people. To start, work on creating a healthy relationship with people around you. Reconnect with families and friends.  Get their contacts and ask about their welfare.  That way it won’t be awkward telling them about your business.  You will definitely need them for spreading the word!!

-        To grow, find mentors and people who have been in the business earlier than you and learn from them. Ask questions, be humble to seek help.  Pride or timidity will not take you anywhere. Do not repeat mistakes others have made already, rather learn from them.

-        Collaboration is highly encouraged.  Things are too tough and expensive to raise capital all alone.  You can combine resources with one or two people of like minds.  As you progress as a group, you may decide to separate and run yours individually later on.

-        The market is very wide, so there is room for everyone to succeed.  You can even do this as a full time job and earn more income than people on salary.

Thanks for your attention.  For information of our Business of Fashion Tips   Whatsapp 08083449835 IG  @lecoleunique Facebook @lecoleunique Email lecoleunique@gmail.com