How to create basic bodice block (Nathalie Bray Method)

 

Introduction

Why Are we Here?

We are here to learn how to draft basic patterns for garment making.  Basic Bodice by Nathalie Bray.

Pattern Making and Manipulation is a skill you learn forever because it is  dynamic, so I am still learning

To improve and add to the fashion Designing skills already achieved.

What Is the Benefit?

We will benefit by learning techniques and skills that will enhance your creativity when making garments, be it Ready-To- Wear or Made –To-Measure.

We will discover various ways of designing our personal signatures without copying or waiting for someone to show us paper illustration.

You can grow your business from just a tailor to a consultant, a trainer, a pattern merchant, patternmaking tools wholesaler etc..

We will learn the easiest way to make clothes fit your client without adjustments after sewing

We will be able to understand and interpret any pattern seen online.

Lesson 1: Objectives

At the End of this Training, you will be able to:

Draft Basic Bodice Pattern (Nathalie Bray Method)

Different Tools required for pattern drafting

• Brown or white paper
• French Curve/Pattern Master 
• Grading Square or Set Square
• Pencil
• Paper scissor
• Calico/Muslin or Plain cotton fabric
• Long Meter Rule
• Markers
• Cellotape/Magic tape
• Masking Tape
• Eraser
• Sharpener
• Tracing Wheel
• Rotary Cutter
• Fabric Scissors
• Soft wood/ or a table
• Spot and Cross Mat
• Long Pins
• Pin Cushion/magnet
• Metric tape
• Measuring Tape
• Pattern Notcher
• Awl
• Calculator
• Pattern Hanger. Keep different sizes to avoid repetition
• Metric pattern Cutting textbook
• Dress Pattern Designing textbook
• Camera or Phone with good camera

Taking Measurement for Pattern Drafting

BODICE MEASUREMENTS

Bust—round the fullest part of the bust in the front. Leave no ease. Make it as close as possible especially for Slim figures

Hips—round the fullest part of the hips (about 20-25cm) from the natural waist

Waist—round the natural waist, (where the navel is).

Back width—across the back, approximately 10-12 cm below the nape of the neck. This should be a generous measurement, allowing for any natural stoop. and the person measured should not stand more erect than usual.

Chest width- Across the chest, approximately 12-13 an down from the base of the neck, with shoulders thrown well back.

Shoulder—down the middle of the shoulder, from neck NP to point of shoulder (SP) where the sleeve begins-This measurement tends to be influenced by fashion.

Back Length to waist—down the CB from nape to natural waist.

Front Length to waist—is taken down the front from Neck Point (NP). To the waist. Optional and not required for pattern drafting.

Measurement Chart 

Note:  This Chart is originally from Nathalie Bray's Dress Pattern Designing text book, but for convenience of use and to accommodate a wider range of sizes, it has been graded down (smaller petite sizes) and Up (for Plus Sizes) by Edidiong Eshiet of LEUTI

Basic Bodice Pattern Drafting (Back)

The measurements required for now will be:

• Bust (B)
• Hips(H)
• Waist (W)
• Length to Waist (LW)
• Back Width (xB)
• Chest Width (Ch)
• Shoulder (S)
• Point O CB 

Step 1

• Identify and write down the measurements you want to use. 
• For RTW use the chart. For MTM use the specific measurement of the client for Bust(B), Waist (W)and Hip(H). Fix it in the range it belongs on the chart.
•  Take your rectangular Pattern paper (about 75cm long). The width will be determined by checking 1/2 Bust + 5cm and 1/2 Hips + 3 cm.  Which ever is the highest.  Use that as the width of the paper.  

Step 2

• Then create a border 3cm at the top (label it Top Line). 2cm on the left side, Label it Centre Back (CB).  Then to the right measure the width and label it Centre Front(CF)
  

E.g 

If Bust = 104cm and Hip = 106cm. You should have 47 + 5 = 52 for bust and 48 + 3 = 51 for hip so 52 is the highest and this should be used for the width of the paper.  So you will have minimum of 75cm X 52cm paper in from of you.

Figure 1

Step 3

• From the top, on the CB,
• Mark Point O (according to the corresponding measurement). Label the Line Neck Line
• Square to the right halfway.

Step 4

From Point O, on the CB, 

• Mark Bust Line (being depth of armhole)
• Mark Waist Line (being Length to Waist (LW) 
• Mark Hip Line (20 to 25cm below waist Line)
• Square to the right all the way to CF.

Step 5

• From Point O, on the CB, 
• mark Back Line (Being half way between Point O and Bust line)
• Mark Shoulder Line (being 3cm below point O)
• Square to the right, halfway 
• Label as shown

To watch some clips on our youtube channel, follow this link

Basic Bodice, Nathalie Bray method

Step 6

• From Point O, Along the Neck Line
• Mark Back Neck Width(according to the corresponding measurement).
• From this point, mark 2cm upwards. Label it Neck Point (NP) 

Step 7

• Along Back Line 
• mark ½ Back width(xBack) 
• Square it Up and Down to have a straight vertical line
• Where the vertical line crosses the shoulder line, mark 2cm to the right and label it SP(Shoulder Point).
• Where the vertical line crosses the back line mark 1cm above and 2cm below
• Where vertical line crosses the bust line, mark *Back UP* to the right and label it UP(underarm point)

Step 8

• Draw the Neck Line with a French Curve from NP to Point O
• Draw a straight line from NP to SP
• Draw the back armhole using and French Curve from NP to UP passing through a 45* angle of 3cm long before reaching UP

Step 9

• Along The Hip Line 
• mark ¼ Hip(H)  and label it HP(Hip Point)
• Join UP to HP with a straight line
• Where that line crosses the waist line, mark 2cm to the left. Label it WP(Waist Point)
• Join UP to WP with a French Curve.

Step 10

• Mark Point O at the top right Hand of the square

Step 11

• Down Along The CF  from Point O
• mark 4cm to 4.5cm depending on the figure, square to the left and label it Shoulder Line
• Down Along The CF  from Point O
• mark 7cm to 8.5cm depending on the figure, square to the left and label it Neck Line
• From Bust Line, Measure 4cm upwards, square to the left and label it Chest Line.
• Along the Top Line, 
• mark the neck width to the left. Label it NP(Neck Point)
• Square it down to the Neck line
• Draw the neck curvepassing though an angle 3 to 3.5 cm depending on the size.

Step 12

• On the Shoulder Line, to the left
• Mark 16.5cm(for all sizes)
• Draw a line from NP through this last point towards the centre of the paper
• On the Bust Line
• Mark ¼ Chest to the left and 2cm below. Square up and down with a Dotted line.
• Where the dotted line crosses the sloping shoulder seam, 
• mark 2cm to the left and from here draw a straight line and join it to the 2cm on that dotted line(below the bust line). Label it inner Line
• Mark the “Dart Size” to the left of the Inner Line (still on the sloping shoulder seam) and from here draw a straight line and join it to the 2cm on that dotted line(below the bust line). Label it Outer Line

Step 13

• From NP down the sloping Shoulder seam
• Mark Shoulder + Dart Size and label it SP(Shoulder Point)

Step 14

• On the Chest Line, 
• Mark  ½ Chest width from CF. Ignore the space between the Inner and Outer line. Label that point ChP(Chest Point).
• Join SP to ChP with a straight line. Mark a point midway on this line and 1cm above that point.
• Drop a short perpendicular to the bust line, 4cm below. And create an angle of  45* and1.5cm long to the left.
• On the Bust Line
• Mark Front UP being Pattern Bust Measurement (1/2 bust + 5) minus ½ back + backup, label it UP
• Draw a curved armhole from SP to UP through ChP.
• On the Hip Line
• mark ¼ Hip + 2cm, Label it HP(Hip Point)
• Join UP to HP with a straight line
• Where the line crosses the waist line, mark 1.5cm to the right. Label it WP(Waist Point)

Step 15

• Below the Bust Line, 
• Mark  4cm, square  to the left and label it True Bust Line
• Below theWaist Line
• Mark 2 to 3 cm depending on size
• Mark 0.5 to 1cm below Front WP
• Mark 0.5 to 1cm below Back WP 
• Draw a straight line from CF to Front WP
• Draw a straight line from Back WP to CB(waist line)

Step 16

• Fold in the Inner Line up to the 2cm below and place it on top of the outer line, such that the fold under faces the neck(CF).
• Use carbon paper and Tracing Wheel to Draw a straight line from NP to SP
• Open up the fold and draw out the line as shown in the figure opposite.

Step 17 – Waist Shaping

• From CB along the Waist Line
• Measure, from CB to back WP and continue from front WP  until the tape registers ½ waist + 2cm .  Label that point R(Reduction).  
• Measure from R to CF. Whatever remains will be share equally to from and back and has to be reduced from the waist.

Waist Reduction(WR) watch explanation here

• Mark 1cm on SL. Waistline from CF. Draw a straight line through the chest
• Mark  1cm on SL waistline right of front WP and draw a shaped Side seam to UP
• Whatever remains is taken out by a waist Dart (13cm above and 15cm below the slanted W.L)
• Mark 1 cm on SL waistline left of back WP and draw a shaped Side seam to UP 
• Mark 2cm right of CB along Waistline and draw and straight line through Backline at CB
• Whatever remains is taken out by a waist Dart (13cm above and 15cm below the slanted W.L)

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